Twittering Machines

The plain white 100% cotton crew neck t shirt. The tee, the undershirt as shirt proper. The perfect summertime partner for your Levi’s. No’s: no pockets, no spandex, no silk, no ‘body sculpting’, no spanx, no v neck, no logos, no nothing – just a plain white 100% cotton crew neck t shirt. Simple. No?

Fit and comfort. What else is there to a t? You can go slim, tall, classic or husky and pick your cotton’s quality according to taste. Of course, every designer offers their version of the white crew neck t shirt – Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Armani, 7 for All Mankind, John Varvatos, James Perse and on and on and on but they all come with a hefty price tag and some sport a conspicuous logo to justify same. Ick. Even the best, finest, softest and most durable cotton is still cotton. Besides, the beauty of the white t shirt is – it’s all about the person filling it in.

That said, there are a few labels that actually mean something in terms of cotton’s comfort and cost. Here are a few (thanks to Wise Geek for most of this information):

Egyptian cotton: Real Egyptian cotton comes from…Egypt. The humid conditions and rich soil in Egypt along the Nile River Valley create the perfect conditions to grow long cotton fibers (also known as staples), and Egyptian cotton falls under the classification of an ELS (extra-long staple) cotton. The staples of Egyptian cotton can range from 1 1/2 inches to 2 1/4 inches. Their long length (about twice the size of other cotton fibers) allows them to be spun into very fine yarns. These yarns are soft and lustrous yet are very strong and durable. Examples: Sunspel of England Classic White Short Sleeve T-Shirt (£36.00).

Pima cotton: America’s Egyptian cotton. The Pima Indian Reservation in Arizona began to grow Pima cotton in the early 1900’s to meet an increasing demand for long staple cotton. Pima cotton is also an ESL cotton that produces soft, durable yarn. Examples: Brooks Brothers Supima® Cotton Crewneck Undershirt ($34.50/3 pack), Ralph Lauren Mercerized Pima Tee ($75)

Sea Island cotton: Unlike Supima, which is a strictly regulated trademark guaranteeing the fineness, length, and strength of extra-long staple pima cotton that’s been grown in the U.S. and then carefully roller-ginned, “sea island” is not a regulated term. According to Richard Dwight Porcher and Sarah Fick authors of The Story of Sea Island Cotton, genuine Sea Island cotton no longer exists. However some manufacturers use American long-fibered cotton (Gossypium barbadense) and call it “Sea Island” even though it technically isn’t. Examples: John Smedley Basil (£92) and Chief (£87) which use “John Smedley’s Sea Island Cotton”.

Combed cotton: an extremely soft version of cotton made by specially treating the cotton fibers before they are spun into yarn. When cotton is combed, fine brushes are used to pull out any remaining impurities, along with short cotton fibers. Approximately 15% of the volume is removed, leaving behind only long, straight fibers which are even and aligned. Examples: see below.

Ringspun: Ringspun refers to the process of weaving cotton fibers into yarn by continuously twisting and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. This process results in a softer more durable cotton fabric. Ringspun fabric often uses combed cotton fibers. Examples: American Apparel Fine Jersey Short Sleeve T-Shirt ($51/3 pack), Jerzees 18ZR Zt™ Premium Adult T-Shirt.

Mercerized cotton: Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric a lustrous appearance. The modern production method for mercerised cotton, also known as “pearl” or “pearle” cotton, gives cotton thread a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid bath. This treatment increases luster, strength, affinity to dye, resistance to mildew, but also increases affinity to lint. Cotton with long staple fiber lengths responds best to mercerisation. Examples: Hanro Cotton Sport T-Shirt ($78), Ralph Lauren Mercerized Pima Tee ($75).

Slub cotton: One of the early problems with automated carding and spinning processes was the appearance of an incidental section of yarn that was fuller than the yarn was intended to be. This soft lump would appear from time to time over each run of one thousand linear feet of yarn, and would have to be removed before the material would be ready for warping or twisting. Over time the concept of yarns containing a high count of slubs as a textural and style alternative began to develop. GAP slub crew neck T ($19.50 no white).

Recommendations

Levi’s 30′s Bay Meadow Tee, $135

I’m sorry to have to say that this t shirt from Levi’s strikes me as the epitome of wrong. $135 dollars. Oh, but it comes with authentic-looking stains and its made of  ‘super soft cotton’. Right. Levi’s also makes an unstained version for $135 and I’m still not buyin it. As far as I’m concerned, the white cotton t should be sold as multiples, as in a package of three. That’s part of the appeal – they’re generic. We’re not.

Campbellsville Apparel Company 100% combed cotton tee shirt, $9.00/pack of 3

Now we’re talkin’. The Campbellsville Apparel Company is “the largest supplier of undershirts and underwear briefs to the United States military services” and unlike almost every other classic American t shirt making company like Haynes, Fruit of the Loom and Jockey, Campbellsville Apparel Company’s t shirts are actually made in the USA (Kentucky). Pick up a 3 pack and a 6 pack and you’re ready for anything. (I originally spotted these beauties on the excellent  A Continuous Lean)

feel free to adorn your plain white t and if you can pull it off (not everyone can) scrawl on it

the plain white 100% cotton crew neck t shirt may or may not be the best choice in dive wear depending on ones point of view